Introduction
The Portugieser is the collection under the magnifying glass and capitalizes on the 2024 Replica IWC innovations presented at Watches and Wonders. The automatic models and chronographs, which represent the volume of the collection’s offering, receive aesthetic and technical updates. To these collections, important developments are added to the chapter of the most relevant complications, among which the new Eternal Perpetual Calendar stands out.
IWC Portugieser Automatic
The original collection already includes the 42 mm and 40 mm versions, substantially different technically and visually despite the 2 mm difference. The 42 mm model is recognized by its double register (autonomy and continuous seconds) and is equipped with the 4 Hertz automatic caliber 52011 and 7 days of maximum autonomy, a pillar of IWC’s production and image.
The 40 mm collection with continuous seconds at six o’clock features one of the most recent automatic manufacturing movements, the caliber 82200 with 60 hours of autonomy.
The new Portugieser Automatic 42 mm
This architecture is a milestone of Portugieser, similar to that adopted for example on the Big Pilot’s Watch, which used it, in this configuration, in some editions of the watch. It is an excellent mix of elegance, personality and taste and is in fact one of the most popular models in the collection. The team led by Knoop did not overturn a successful scheme, they retouched it in various details to make it overall more refined and a little more vintage in sensations.
The case is now slimmer and a double sapphire glass box enlarges the dial. The designers have streamlined and made the font more pleasant; these are almost imperceptible changes compared to the current references. Rather, a great deal of work has been done on the new dials, which represent the great new element.
The new Horizon Blue, Obsidian, Dune dials
Starting from a soleil or matt finished base, the “raw” dial is subsequently treated by applying 15 layers of transparent lacquer.
In our opinion, the most successful is the dial in Horizon Blue; A palette like this has not yet been seen on a classic IWC. The Sand also stands out, especially for its classic sophistication. Horizon Blue and Sand are associated with the steel case, while Obsidian Black is associated exclusively with the red gold case.
A third option is represented by the midnight blue dial associated with the Portugieser Automatic 42 equipped for the first time with a steel bracelet. This range extension is by no means negligible, because it allows the watch to be transformed into an unexpected steel sports watch with bracelet, an option previously reserved only for Portugieser Chronographs.